Hotel Review: The Ranch at Emerald Valley

I’ve always dreamed of a spa bathroom with double sinks and radiant floors for those cool nights when nature calls. I simply never imagined finding such delights in a log cabin deep in the woods, surrounded by nature.

Emerald Valley Ranch, deep in Colorado’s Pikes Peak Forest, is certainly not like the Girl Scout camps of my childhood, places where typical “amenities” included outdoor plumbing and tables picnic. But that’s exactly what the site was before it changed hands a century ago to Spencer Penrose, a miner who got rich and invested in real estate. He built the opulent Broadmoor Hotel in Colorado Springs in 1918 and built cabins on the old Scout site as a summer retreat. (Ex-soldiers needn’t worry: The Girl Scouts used the proceeds to keep the organization thriving in the woods of Colorado Springs and surrounding areas.)

PUT IT TO THE TEST: The best hotel booking sites

Today, these cabins are part of Broadmoor Properties and offer rustic refinement surrounded by 100,000 acres of Pike National Forest. Surrounded by stunning blue skies, craggy peaks and towering pines, my family was just as enchanted by the site as Penrose must have been a century ago.

BETTER, BETTER, YES: 19 Best Family Resorts and Hotels in the United States

My husband and I brought our adventurous four-year-old Jimmy here for four days of hiking, fly fishing, and the first of what will surely be many pony rides.

Our COVID-era baby loves spending time outside, but even given our adventurous nature, the three of us city dwellers tend to spend more time indoors and in front of screens than we’d like. Our TV-free cabin (one of only 10) was a real escape from the noise of cars and foot traffic back home in Boston.

HOWDY PARTNERS: 10 Great Ranches for Families

We settled in for three nights in a comfortable room with earthy-toned Western designs and wooden furniture that transported us to a different era and state of mind. Mom and Dad shared a queen bed surrounded by windows to let in the birdsong while Jimmy had his own comfy bed nestled right next to the gas fireplace.

The Ranch at Emerald Valley’s warm hospitality began the moment our shuttle from Broadmoor arrived after a 45-minute drive through pristine forest. We were greeted by all the staff outside, who took us into the main lodge for warm cookies and blueberry lemonade. Mom and Dad were encouraged to add any alcohol of their choice to make it an adult beverage, with the option of several local craft liquors from the Olde Swan Tavern. We succeeded, but Jimmy quickly became friends with bartender Zoe, who makes mocktails for families with children.

Drinks, meals, and activities at the ranch are all-inclusive, and my husband and I were impressed with how quickly the staff learned not only our names, but also my son’s allergies.

The chef customized a menu for the three days we were here so Jimmy could eat almost anything. Three-course dinners are definitely not the chili and beans of the cowboy days here, and we feasted on beef from local ranches and produce from area farms. However, it’s all delightfully low-key, with shorts and jeans welcome in the main lodge, where the crackle of the wood-burning fireplace creates warmth in more ways than one.

Jimmy even tried trout after spending an afternoon learning to cast from a fly fishing instructor. Emiliano was like a patient older brother, baiting a child-sized reel for the stocked pond and showing our young angler how to reel in (and cast back) his slippery catch.

We all enjoyed the hiking trails with a variety suitable for the shortest or the strongest and longest legs. Some of the more athletic couples opt for guided hikes to the summit, but our family adventures through the woods and fields were an easy path with plenty to see and taste. Jimmy ate his weight in wild raspberries, marveled at butterflies, and picked wildflowers for our cabin.

NATURAL BEAUTY: Beautiful, less crowded alternatives to the busier national parks

The experience that brought some of the biggest smiles, however, was Jimmy’s first horseback ride on little mare Annie. She and the instructor were very patient as he pushed her carefully at first with his hiking boots, then used a little more force once he got the hang of it. As for Annie’s shoes, Jimmy was fascinated by her horseshoes, a perfect excuse to showcase the iconic lawn game.

One of our favorite parts of the Ranch at Emerald Valley experience was the opportunity to connect with other guests over cocktails at happy hour and during nightly s’mores around the fire pit. We’ve met couples on babymoons, others on romantic getaways enjoying the beautiful cedar hot tubs, and teenagers on family vacations hitting the “off” switch on the Nintendo Switch. There was also a family who chose the largest cabin for their reunion after finally finding a spot they all agreed on. It was easy to understand why.

Before Jimmy went from four to 14, we prioritized vacations like The Ranch at Emerald Valley. There is ample space to spread out and disconnect, but reconnect with others and nature, just like at home on the land.

More from FamilyVacationist: